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spring thaw (bouldering route) (pass lake sibley ontario canada)
Submitted by: daniel howells
Climbed on: march sometime
Report:
CHECK IT OUT ON YOUTUBE SPRING THAW PASS LAKE
so if u follow the old train tracks from pass lake climbing area u will notice their are many short (mostly untouched) boulderable cliff on both sides. spring thaw (name of the section) (boulder route named "Cold fingers" ) is located just passed the first road that on the left. (5-10min walk in) then go around the corner and you'll c it on the right. if you decide to try it in the summer (probably good idea) theres a beaver dam not too much further up ahead that u can cross on. (i suspect my bridge isnt going to last very long)
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The Last Samurai : V6/7 (The Bluffs)
Submitted by: Kyle Shushack
Climbed on: April 21st 2010
Report: FA: Kyle Shushack/ Mitch Marostica
This is slightly overhanging boulder problem right off the parking lot at The Bluffs. Climb the face to the left of "I Saw a Clear Light..." using sharp crimps and gastons for balance. The crux is a slight throw to a good flake with really bad feet and then a throw to the finish and top out.
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The Negotiator, 5.11a *** (Claghorn (Longwall))
Submitted by: Matt Houston
Climbed on: Spring, 2010
Report:
This is the sport climb to the right of Gift of the Trees. Follow bolts in a dihedral to the top. A tricky start leads to amazing face climbing and an overhanging finish.
F.A. Nick Rochacewich, Aric Fishman
F.F.A Matt Houston
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The Star Boulder (Climbers Cliffs)
Submitted by: Matt Houston
Climbed on: April, 2010
Report:
Location:
This boulder is located on the trail to the caves at Climbers Cliffs. Head up the Big Bear Trail and take your first right. Follow this to the boulder.
Routes:
Fun routes, all with great landings!
Rock Star, V1 (V6/7 sit start) **
Ninja Star V2 sit start *
Twinkle Twinkle Ringo Star V1 Sit Start *
Star Light, V1 stand start *
Star Bright, V1 Sit start *
Starburst, V6 sit start **
Starway, V2 sit start ***
Cleaned and Climbed by: Matt Amon, Katelyn Chantler, Aric Fishman and Matt Houston
*There is room for a few additional hard problems on this boulder. There are also many other boulders, with cool features and good landings waiting to be explored!
** Make sure to contact the Chapmans for permission before climbing here. This applies everytime you go.
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Everything Goes Brown 5.10b 70m (Crescent Lake)
Submitted by: Matt Houston
Climbed on: Novemeber 12, 2010
Report:
Getting There:
Head to Mt. Godfrey, but instead of taking the right fork on the small dirt road, go left until you get to a lake, this is Crescent Lake. This climbing area involves a bit of a hike, but is well worth it! The section of quality rock is above the shale band and kind of hidden. To get to this climb, hike along the North (right) side of the lake, staying close to the water. At the end of the lake, head up into the boulder field. Head up and right to the base of the cliff. Use the picture above to identify the climb.
Route Description:
Look for a section with 2 distinct cracks on a steep multicoloured wall. P1: (25m, 5.10b) Climb up easy ledges to the bottom of the obvious far left crack system. Climb straight up this overhanging crack, with perfect protection, to the large ledge above. Belay from the large pine tree on the ledge. P2: (20m, 5.7) Walk right on the big ledge and then head up a dirty corner to the next big ledge. Continue right to a large pine tree and set up a belay. P3: (25m, 5.7) This pitch is great fun with tones of cool moves. Head up from the tree and slightly left to the top. Rappel off the pine tree on top to the second belay, 25m. Rappel 25m to the ground, heading down right of the tree.
Gear:
Full set of stoppers. Set of cams to #2 Camalot, doubles of .5-1 are recommended for P1. Each belay has a large tree (Which also makes it easy to rap from any pitch).
Note: An easier first pitch (5.7ish) line would go with some cleaning. This would make a 3 pitch 5.7, with huge tree belay ledges, great gear and good rock. A great intro to multipitch climbing!
F.A and F.A.A: Matt Houston and Aric Fishman
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Electric Gigolo 5.12b (Climbers Cliffs)
Submitted by: Matt Houston
Climbed on: September 25, 2010
Report:
See guidebook for route description.
F.F.A: Fred Giroux
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Trisuli Basaar 5.12a (The Bluffs)
Submitted by: Matt Houston
Climbed on: Oct 23, 2010
Report: We believe this the first free ascent of this route. This route is super bouldery and an exciting lead. Start under the roof and power straight up using crimpers and slapping up the arête to good holds. Place gear here, than prepare for the second crux following up the thin crack to good holds on top. Belay off tree’s or Bolts above Gardener’s Book.
F.F.A Matt Houston
Gear: Couple small TCU’s and a couple tiny nuts. A crash pad is recommended for the bottom boulder start. There are also 2 old pitons near the start of the route and a rivet near the top, use with caution.
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Cold Feat - 5.10, A1 - 55m, 2 pitches (Crescent Lake (North Side))
Submitted by: Aric Fishman
Climbed on: March 19, 2011
Report:
F.A: Fred Giroux and Aric Fishman
Getting There:
Hike in to Crescent Lake from the Water Treatment Center, or drive in if you can. Keeping close to the shore line, head down the right (North) side of the lake until it ends and turns into a marsh. Start heading up the boulder field and continue a bit farther left along the cliffs till there is no more shale band. Use the picture to help you identify the climb.
Route Description:
Pitch 1 (35m): Start on the left side of the dihedral using nice ledges and a small crack. Head up and right towards the prominent hand crack but be careful not to knock of any loose rocks while traversing. Climb straight up the beautiful and slightly overhanging hand crack while taking advantage of footholds on the face along the way. There is an incredible belay ledge (gear) at the top of the hand crack to reduce rope drag.
Pitch 2 (20m): From the big belay ledge, climb straight up the finger-to-hand crack to another ledge and traverse left to get back to a good crack. Continue climbing up and right using the obvious line in the middle of the wall. The upper section of this crack was dirty but easily went at A1 (2.5 meter section). Once over the bulge, climb up and right using good foot and hand holds. Once on the massive ledge, move right and belay from a medium sized tree (has rappel anchor on it) and bomber gear. A 60m double rope rappel will get you all the way to the ground.
Gear: Standard rack up to 3” - doubles in small cams (blue TCU's) are useful.
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Death as an advisor 5.10c *** 30 m (1st Buttress Sqaw Bay)
Submitted by: Duncan Hutchison
Climbed on: June 2007
Report:
F.A. Kyle Brooks and Duncan Hutchison June 2007
F.F.A Duncan Hutchison and Kyle Brooks June 2010
Located on the 1st buttress at sqaw bay, find the anchors (2 gold chains) as you hike past (north of) “Stuck in a jam”.
Rappel into climb from 2 bolt anchor (or top belay), redirecting at the roof makes it easier to reach the start of climb. 2nd set of 2 bolt anchor, with quick links, for a hanging belay.
The climb starts 30 meters up on a large arete. Climb a wide hand crack through an upside-down staircase of roofs (easily visible from road), continue as crack trends left going through fists, hands, fingers, and face climbing (1 bolt). Finally back right again to finish at the anchor.
Gear: Cams 0.5 to 4inch (recommend you double up), with single set of tcu's; tripple up on 3 inch to be comfortable.
Note: Picture in Climbing magazine No. 238 March 2010. Spectacular pitch of crack climbing worth the top belay or rappel-lead, the only draw back is a hanging belay if you choose to lead it.
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"Fraggle Rock" (Claghorn longwall right)
Submitted by: Duncan Hutchison
Climbed on: F.F.A. Duncan Hutchison,
Report:
5.8-5.9
F.F.A. Duncan Hutchison, Kyle Brooks, Derek Patola May 2010
Located 25-40meters past "Des Nuts" area. Hidden in corner behind birch tree
Fun hands to fists to off-width to chimney. Watch for loose chockstone at top. Standard rack to 5 inches with double cams 2-4 inches . 25 meters. Walk down or rappel off “Des Nuts”
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Heart of the Anomaly (Sliver Harbour)
Submitted by: Ryan Ford
Climbed on: October 6 2010
Report:
F.A. James Szolopiak
"Heart of the Anomaly" is the off width crack about 2 meters left of "Winter Wonderland". Not the most challenging route but lots of fun. A little stemming to start and a few hand jams leads to a nice finish. Use the anchors from "Winter Wonderland" to set up a top-rope. Not completely clean yet but all nice solid rock. Lots of fun.
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Mighty Moose (5.5) (11m) (Silver Harbour)
Submitted by: terry prodanyk
Climbed on: May 2010
Report:
FA: Monica Prodanyk
FFA: Terry Prodanyk
Located about 6m left while facing the big cave opening next to Silver Birch.
This new, easy route is finally ready! Far more cleaning on this route than I originally anticipated. This is a great beginner route and intro trad climb. Takes cams and hexes very nicely once you're on the big ledge about half way up. Beware of the flaring crack though for gear placement.
Optional easy starts on the bottom-half of the climb for TR; then plan your next strategy on 'Disco-Dan's Dangerous Dance-Floor' and climb up the twin crack through the small chimney to the top.
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Home of the Beaver (5.8+) (11m) (Silver Harbour)
Submitted by: terry prodanyk
Climbed on: May 1, 2010
Report:
FA: Monica Prodanyk, Terry Prodanyk
TR/Sport
Located immediately left (1-2 m) while facing the cave opening by Silver Birch...hence "Home of the Beaver" & "Mighty Moose" on the same wall further to the left.
Follow easy stepped ledges to start. Use a left mantle (optional) and side-pulls onto the first major ledge. Two steps on the right of the arret and an excellent flake with a layback will get you through the first crux move to the small ledge. Finish the top slab with balancey moves on sloped edges and small right-hand side pulls.
Anchors at top for easy setup with rappel rings.
July 2010: Now also a 3-bolt sport route. The bottom section is ~5.5, middle section ~5.6-5.8, but the top third of this climb justifies the 5.8+ (5.9?) rating. Similar to the top of Stairmaster & Blockbuster.
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Stirling 5.13b (Silver Harbor)
Submitted by: Danny O'Farrell
Climbed on: April 2010
Report: Left of Silver Harbor Dream Line, This route follows the arete on side pulling crips, pinches and dynamic climbing...
4 bolts with anchors.
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Maltese Sandwiches 5.10c (Claghorn Longwall)
Submitted by: Danny O'Farrell
Climbed on: October 2009
Report:
F.A. Blain Herringer, Nick Rochacewich, Danny O'Farrell,
F.F.A. Blain Herringer
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Left of The Beginning
Climb First Arete before The Beginning and Des Nutz...fun enjoyable climb with some funky moves...Clip the bolts and hit the anchors.
10 draws
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Gift of the trees 5.12c-d (Claghorn Longwall)
Submitted by: Danny O'Farrell
Climbed on: October 2009
Report:
F.A. Nick Rochacewich, Danny O'Farrell, Blain Herringer
F.F.A. Nick Rochacewich
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Right of Des Nutz
Follow the open book on a series of ledges on easy climbing to the roof, clip the bolt on the roof with a long draw and commit. Follow thin crimps and side pulls, with technical footwork on beautiful black streaks to anchors.
10 draws to anchors.
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The Beginning 5.12b (Claghorn Longwall)
Submitted by: Danny O'Farrell
Climbed on: October 2009
Report:
F.A. Nick Rochacewich, Danny O'Farrell, Blain Herringer
F.F.A. Nick Rochacewich,
Left of Des Nutz...A well bolted 12a arete, very technical steep climbing, follow your way up thin crimpy ledges, side pulls and pricise foot work, to open the gates to the beginning. Fun and sequency route with good holds to clip from.
12 Quick Draws
Anchors
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The Swing of Things 5.11d (Pass Lake, Staircase Wall)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: November 8 2009
Report:
FA: Adam O'Connor, Kyle Brooks
FFA: Adam O'Connor
Location: Only a few meters to the right of face dancing.
Start in a corner climb the edge of the overhang. Crux between 4 and 5 bolt . Fixed draws for the first 4 bolts Chains on top for anchor.
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All Dressed 5.10a** (Claghorn long wall-right)
Submitted by: Duncan Hutchison
Climbed on: 08-Aug-2009
Report:
FA Kyle Brooks, Duncan Hutchison 8-Aug-09
FFA Duncan Hutchison, Kyle Brooks 15-Aug-09
Located 50 meters or so, before “nothing shocking” and "Ace of Swords". Spruce tree at base with logs building up belay stance. Climb the varied crack into thin section(protected with small nuts and TCU's) and continue on with fun jamming to the top. 30 meters to top, rap off tree with cord anchor. Gear: Double rack up to #3 camalot would be comfortable, or single rack with double or triple .5-.75 camalots.
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Back to the Temple 5.10? (Caribou Island)
Submitted by: Alex Joseph
Climbed on: July 21 2009
Report:
Back to the Temple 5.10? 30m
FA: Alex Joseph, Jarron Childs Jul '09
Fantastic gear belay position on a nice ledge with great view of Temple Reef and beyond. Steep face covered in lichen that if completely cleaned likely would go at 11 but with heavy lichen was a weaving, rope hang with pendulums to decent holds through largely blank sections in the middle. Good finger crack corner pillar to start. Top rope.
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Saddle Up 5.7 (Passlake- Overhanging wall/No man's Land)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: 2008
Report:
Saddle Up is to the left of Cave Crawler. Climb up either side of the same block as cave crawler. (sport, 5 bolts , 2 bolt anchor)
Established in november 08 , Duncan Hutchison, Kyle Brooks
(Fun route and is great addition to Cave Crawler)
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Toss It Up 5.9+ 50m 2 pitch (Squaw Bay ( Chiller Pillar Wall))
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: 2008
Report:
F.A. Kyle Brooks, Duncan Hutchison, Shawn Robinson P1 , FFA Duncan Hutchison, Derrik Patola P1, Duncan Hutchison, Kyle Brooks P2
Location: approximately 100m to the right of American Demon.
Pitch1 Start up a small shale band to a slaby face with a bolt. Travers to the right to reach a crack system leading to a fun roof..... 5.9+ 20m Bolted Belay.
Pitch 2 Travers right to a large ledge passing a bolt. Step down to a great clean crack all the way up .5.8 30m Gear :2 Bolts tcus, Rp’s, Gear to 4 Note P1 may require a couple purple tcus
Rappel with two ropes to ground
This Is a highly recommended route lots of varied climbing * there is a third pitch to the top but is a JUNK pile but if you want to go to the top it is 10 meters easy loose Low 5th class, rap from pine tree.)
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Mc Jiggy 10C 14meters (Pass Lake (staricase wall))
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: Oct 08
Report:
F.A Kyle Brooks, Alex Holowatty.. Located to the right of face dancing. Great route with wicked crux move .. 4 bolts
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Lookout 5.8+ 30m ( Lost Falls , Left Wall)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: Sept 20 /08
Report:
FA: Kyle Brooks ,Duncan Hutchison FFA Kyle Brooks , Alex Holowatty
This route is located to the left of escape from the black flies. Climb the blockly start to a finger /hand crack in a corner. Catch a rest on the large ledge and follow the 3 bolts to the top. Bolted Belay
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Sunshine and lollipops 55 meters .10a 2 pitch (Squaw Bay)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: Summer 08
Report:
F.A : Alex Holowatty, Phil Dunn, Duncan Hutchison, Kyle Brooks,
Located 2.2km up the road, park at the pull over . hike straight up towards a prominent buttress.
Pitch 1: Climb the traversing face , then thin cracks to a bolted belay . Extend all pieces after 3 bolt. . 40 m 6 bolts
Pitch 2: Climb flakes and crack to the top. 15. Gear : Nuts, lots TCU's, standard rack of cams , 6 + runners for pitch 1
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Autochone O-tak-thone 45 m 10c *** (Sqaw Bay, Chiller Pillar Wall)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: FFA:June 08 Duncan Hutch
Report:
FFA : Duncan Hutchison
FA: Kyle Brooks, Duncan Hutchison .Aug 07
This route shares the same start as pokey kitty. Start on the bolck, climb into the corner then bust out RIGHT.
This is an wicked good route that offers a little of every thing . Great climbing on steep rock Rapple from rings
Gear : lots! Double rack cams ,TCUs Gear to 3''
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Pokey Kitty 30m 10+ * (Squaw Bay ,Chiller Pillar Wall)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: FFA: July/08 Kyle Brooks
Report:
To the right of Pokey Puppy/Tag 11A. Pokey Kitty stats on a block, head up a crack that leads into a corner then bust out LEFT towards some flakes protected by a bolt. Jam your way up the crack , to the start of a large flake cross over to the finger crack to your left . chains on top for belay Gear: standerd rack ,TCU, couple little tiny nuts
Note second pitch looks cool but lots of cleaning needed
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Water Side Attraction 2 pitch 50m 5.9 (Oliver Lake : Amphitheatre Wall)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: Aug 4/2008
Report:
FFA : p1 Kyle Brooks p2 Danny O'Farrell
A boat is required to get to the Amphitheater. From west side of oliver lake. Canoe past several small cliffs (water soloing) , Then past 3 camps. And it is the first large 50 meter cliff . 5-10 minute canoe ride Great route with lots of adventure to go with it.(loose rock.)
Pitch1 Start a cedar tree with a small belay area . Climb up corner to large roof , traverse right then up to belay ledge Gear belay large cd's needed.
Pitch 2 Climb up under the large roof exit left though offwidth and top out to tree belay (careful for loose rock between belay and large roof) Gear: Standerd Rack with extra # 2-4
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deep water soloing (Oliver Lake)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: Hot Summer Days
Report:
There are a couple of fun deep water solos at Oliver Lake. 10 meters at most. Deep water off cliff face. A canoe is needed . do not climb close to any camps because of the private property. Crazy FUN
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Hidden Treasures 2pitch 70m 5.9 ** (Orient Bay)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: May 08
Report: F.A Phil Dunn, Kyle Brooks
This route is located in front of fire# 386 sign/driveway . Just around the corner of Reflection Lake Resort
Pitch 1: Climb the slab working your way to the base of a flake crack with bolted belay . 5.6 R Rp's very useful.
Pitch 2 :Climb hand /fist crack that turns offwidth. Continue up a beautiful crack that quickly turns thin go staight up ( much harder than 5.9) or make a big reach right , to a bomber flake that brings you under a roof. Traverse roof to original crack top out to a bolted belay.
rappell route 2 -60 m ropes gets you just to the ground with stretch Gear full rack cd's double #3, # 6optional
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Every Thing Goes Green - 10b (PassLake)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: june 6 2007
Report: Duncan and I think this may have been a f.f.a on this route.
We lead it on gear, the first placement 15 feet up was a little dubious.
i would not really want to whip on the placements.
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The Right Of Way (Mt. Godfrey)
Submitted by: brandon pullan
Climbed on: Summer 05\'
Report: (the info in the new guidbook is a little off and does not do this climb justice)
The Right of Way 5.10d, 70m ***
FA: Brandon Pullan, Steve Gale
FFA: Brandon Pullan, Will Meinen
An awesome line in a beautiful setting. It is the most obvious crack in the area and it is wild that it hadnt been climbed. Start 50m left of Echoes of the Totem at the base of a stellar hand crack.
P1: follow crack to ledge the matle to slanting ledge with anchors. 5.8 20m
P2: layback the thin corner crack stemming your way under a small roof. At the roof, pull the roof of small fingers, sparse feet and wild exposure into a dihedral then to a small ledge with anchors. 5.10d 30m
P3: jam the fun corner crack with ease to the cliff top. 5.9 20m
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Building An Ego (Pass Lake)
Submitted by: brandon pullan
Climbed on: summer 05
Report: Building an Ego! 5.11a, 25m
FA/FFA: Brandon Pullan, Steve Gale
I established this route, solo ground up for the first 3 bolts.. it was my first ground up attempt for a pure sport climb and led to many out west where I am now. The last 5 bolts I rapped in from the top. This route is high quality and one of my favorite routes. It is the sport climb found 15m rite of Chinesse water Torture.. Next to the TR route Jesus' Hair Do. I Searched for hours with the guide (old and new) for a line yet climbed, the lake is pretty much climbed out but there is still a little potential.
ROUTE: Climb up past slopping ledges up and left past bad rock and into the crux.. power through a balancy sequence and then onto a funky face with horizontal slopers galore, anchor has quick links, rap. Have Fun!
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Des Nuts 5.9+ (claghorn long wall)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: oct 28 2006
Report: Location; park at the second clearcut access road, it is now dug up so you cant drive in. walk towarks the back of the cut to log, hammerd into the ground with flaging tape. follow to trail to talus and go stright up towards the drainage gully. the climb is a few feet to the right of the drainage. 5 minute walk to nothing shocking.
This climb follows a 6 boltline up a thin flake to a corner, continue up the dihedral to a roof. Pull out with a crack and good feet.
6 bolt, finger crack sized gear.
F.A Ryan Hymers, Kyle Brooks, Richie Sitarski
F.F.A kyle brooks oct 28 06
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Sundance (Orient Bay)
Submitted by: brandon pullan
Climbed on: Aug. 06
Report: A wild crack line that separates a large pillar from the main wall north of mt. olympus. It is most likely the best crack ive ever been on..
P1: Climb the stellar crack to the inner cave belay. 5.9 (35m)
P2: exit out through large roof.... (project)
FA Patola, Pullan
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Paralyzed by Choice (Lost Falls)
Submitted by: Alex Joseph
Climbed on: 08/2006
Report: 5.8 (4 pitch) 75m? trad 1.5*
FA: Jarron Childs, Alex Joseph alts. 08/2006 (ground up onsight)
A new route in the area around the corner left of Myopic Adventure on Big Thunder Wall just as the loose chossy rock begins to make the start difficult. (repeated route in 2009 and it likely is the easiest line).
P1: Follow up from the left past a cedar in the loose choss, to a cedar in the corner and then up the solid corner and left face to a horizontal cedar belay on a sitting ledge. This is also a potential rappel location (5.4-25m). P2: This is the best pitch. Work up the corner finger-fist crack using small thin edges and jams. Then stem right around what seems like a loose block with a great undercling to a foot ledge. Then work up near the arete with lots of air below on great hand and foot holds with a thin crack for good gear, past a small cedar to sling. Then up to a roof on the right and belay in good 1-2" crack (5.8-25m). P3: Traverse delicately right around roof and up through some vertical cracks to a large ledge with trees. Alternatively go left up through a nice looking flake and roof (5.8-15m). P4: Pop up through some cracks and blocks and top out by pulling through a final boulder (5.4-15m). DESCENT: Via the rappel above Deceptacon.
Submitted by: daniel howells
Climbed on: march sometime
Report:
CHECK IT OUT ON YOUTUBE SPRING THAW PASS LAKE
so if u follow the old train tracks from pass lake climbing area u will notice their are many short (mostly untouched) boulderable cliff on both sides. spring thaw (name of the section) (boulder route named "Cold fingers" ) is located just passed the first road that on the left. (5-10min walk in) then go around the corner and you'll c it on the right. if you decide to try it in the summer (probably good idea) theres a beaver dam not too much further up ahead that u can cross on. (i suspect my bridge isnt going to last very long)
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The Last Samurai : V6/7 (The Bluffs)
Submitted by: Kyle Shushack
Climbed on: April 21st 2010
Report: FA: Kyle Shushack/ Mitch Marostica
This is slightly overhanging boulder problem right off the parking lot at The Bluffs. Climb the face to the left of "I Saw a Clear Light..." using sharp crimps and gastons for balance. The crux is a slight throw to a good flake with really bad feet and then a throw to the finish and top out.
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The Negotiator, 5.11a *** (Claghorn (Longwall))
Submitted by: Matt Houston
Climbed on: Spring, 2010
Report:
This is the sport climb to the right of Gift of the Trees. Follow bolts in a dihedral to the top. A tricky start leads to amazing face climbing and an overhanging finish.
F.A. Nick Rochacewich, Aric Fishman
F.F.A Matt Houston
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The Star Boulder (Climbers Cliffs)
Submitted by: Matt Houston
Climbed on: April, 2010
Report:
Location:
This boulder is located on the trail to the caves at Climbers Cliffs. Head up the Big Bear Trail and take your first right. Follow this to the boulder.
Routes:
Fun routes, all with great landings!
Rock Star, V1 (V6/7 sit start) **
Ninja Star V2 sit start *
Twinkle Twinkle Ringo Star V1 Sit Start *
Star Light, V1 stand start *
Star Bright, V1 Sit start *
Starburst, V6 sit start **
Starway, V2 sit start ***
Cleaned and Climbed by: Matt Amon, Katelyn Chantler, Aric Fishman and Matt Houston
*There is room for a few additional hard problems on this boulder. There are also many other boulders, with cool features and good landings waiting to be explored!
** Make sure to contact the Chapmans for permission before climbing here. This applies everytime you go.
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Everything Goes Brown 5.10b 70m (Crescent Lake)
Submitted by: Matt Houston
Climbed on: Novemeber 12, 2010
Report:
Getting There:
Head to Mt. Godfrey, but instead of taking the right fork on the small dirt road, go left until you get to a lake, this is Crescent Lake. This climbing area involves a bit of a hike, but is well worth it! The section of quality rock is above the shale band and kind of hidden. To get to this climb, hike along the North (right) side of the lake, staying close to the water. At the end of the lake, head up into the boulder field. Head up and right to the base of the cliff. Use the picture above to identify the climb.
Route Description:
Look for a section with 2 distinct cracks on a steep multicoloured wall. P1: (25m, 5.10b) Climb up easy ledges to the bottom of the obvious far left crack system. Climb straight up this overhanging crack, with perfect protection, to the large ledge above. Belay from the large pine tree on the ledge. P2: (20m, 5.7) Walk right on the big ledge and then head up a dirty corner to the next big ledge. Continue right to a large pine tree and set up a belay. P3: (25m, 5.7) This pitch is great fun with tones of cool moves. Head up from the tree and slightly left to the top. Rappel off the pine tree on top to the second belay, 25m. Rappel 25m to the ground, heading down right of the tree.
Gear:
Full set of stoppers. Set of cams to #2 Camalot, doubles of .5-1 are recommended for P1. Each belay has a large tree (Which also makes it easy to rap from any pitch).
Note: An easier first pitch (5.7ish) line would go with some cleaning. This would make a 3 pitch 5.7, with huge tree belay ledges, great gear and good rock. A great intro to multipitch climbing!
F.A and F.A.A: Matt Houston and Aric Fishman
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Electric Gigolo 5.12b (Climbers Cliffs)
Submitted by: Matt Houston
Climbed on: September 25, 2010
Report:
See guidebook for route description.
F.F.A: Fred Giroux
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Trisuli Basaar 5.12a (The Bluffs)
Submitted by: Matt Houston
Climbed on: Oct 23, 2010
Report: We believe this the first free ascent of this route. This route is super bouldery and an exciting lead. Start under the roof and power straight up using crimpers and slapping up the arête to good holds. Place gear here, than prepare for the second crux following up the thin crack to good holds on top. Belay off tree’s or Bolts above Gardener’s Book.
F.F.A Matt Houston
Gear: Couple small TCU’s and a couple tiny nuts. A crash pad is recommended for the bottom boulder start. There are also 2 old pitons near the start of the route and a rivet near the top, use with caution.
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Cold Feat - 5.10, A1 - 55m, 2 pitches (Crescent Lake (North Side))
Submitted by: Aric Fishman
Climbed on: March 19, 2011
Report:
F.A: Fred Giroux and Aric Fishman
Getting There:
Hike in to Crescent Lake from the Water Treatment Center, or drive in if you can. Keeping close to the shore line, head down the right (North) side of the lake until it ends and turns into a marsh. Start heading up the boulder field and continue a bit farther left along the cliffs till there is no more shale band. Use the picture to help you identify the climb.
Route Description:
Pitch 1 (35m): Start on the left side of the dihedral using nice ledges and a small crack. Head up and right towards the prominent hand crack but be careful not to knock of any loose rocks while traversing. Climb straight up the beautiful and slightly overhanging hand crack while taking advantage of footholds on the face along the way. There is an incredible belay ledge (gear) at the top of the hand crack to reduce rope drag.
Pitch 2 (20m): From the big belay ledge, climb straight up the finger-to-hand crack to another ledge and traverse left to get back to a good crack. Continue climbing up and right using the obvious line in the middle of the wall. The upper section of this crack was dirty but easily went at A1 (2.5 meter section). Once over the bulge, climb up and right using good foot and hand holds. Once on the massive ledge, move right and belay from a medium sized tree (has rappel anchor on it) and bomber gear. A 60m double rope rappel will get you all the way to the ground.
Gear: Standard rack up to 3” - doubles in small cams (blue TCU's) are useful.
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Death as an advisor 5.10c *** 30 m (1st Buttress Sqaw Bay)
Submitted by: Duncan Hutchison
Climbed on: June 2007
Report:
F.A. Kyle Brooks and Duncan Hutchison June 2007
F.F.A Duncan Hutchison and Kyle Brooks June 2010
Located on the 1st buttress at sqaw bay, find the anchors (2 gold chains) as you hike past (north of) “Stuck in a jam”.
Rappel into climb from 2 bolt anchor (or top belay), redirecting at the roof makes it easier to reach the start of climb. 2nd set of 2 bolt anchor, with quick links, for a hanging belay.
The climb starts 30 meters up on a large arete. Climb a wide hand crack through an upside-down staircase of roofs (easily visible from road), continue as crack trends left going through fists, hands, fingers, and face climbing (1 bolt). Finally back right again to finish at the anchor.
Gear: Cams 0.5 to 4inch (recommend you double up), with single set of tcu's; tripple up on 3 inch to be comfortable.
Note: Picture in Climbing magazine No. 238 March 2010. Spectacular pitch of crack climbing worth the top belay or rappel-lead, the only draw back is a hanging belay if you choose to lead it.
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"Fraggle Rock" (Claghorn longwall right)
Submitted by: Duncan Hutchison
Climbed on: F.F.A. Duncan Hutchison,
Report:
5.8-5.9
F.F.A. Duncan Hutchison, Kyle Brooks, Derek Patola May 2010
Located 25-40meters past "Des Nuts" area. Hidden in corner behind birch tree
Fun hands to fists to off-width to chimney. Watch for loose chockstone at top. Standard rack to 5 inches with double cams 2-4 inches . 25 meters. Walk down or rappel off “Des Nuts”
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Heart of the Anomaly (Sliver Harbour)
Submitted by: Ryan Ford
Climbed on: October 6 2010
Report:
F.A. James Szolopiak
"Heart of the Anomaly" is the off width crack about 2 meters left of "Winter Wonderland". Not the most challenging route but lots of fun. A little stemming to start and a few hand jams leads to a nice finish. Use the anchors from "Winter Wonderland" to set up a top-rope. Not completely clean yet but all nice solid rock. Lots of fun.
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Mighty Moose (5.5) (11m) (Silver Harbour)
Submitted by: terry prodanyk
Climbed on: May 2010
Report:
FA: Monica Prodanyk
FFA: Terry Prodanyk
Located about 6m left while facing the big cave opening next to Silver Birch.
This new, easy route is finally ready! Far more cleaning on this route than I originally anticipated. This is a great beginner route and intro trad climb. Takes cams and hexes very nicely once you're on the big ledge about half way up. Beware of the flaring crack though for gear placement.
Optional easy starts on the bottom-half of the climb for TR; then plan your next strategy on 'Disco-Dan's Dangerous Dance-Floor' and climb up the twin crack through the small chimney to the top.
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Home of the Beaver (5.8+) (11m) (Silver Harbour)
Submitted by: terry prodanyk
Climbed on: May 1, 2010
Report:
FA: Monica Prodanyk, Terry Prodanyk
TR/Sport
Located immediately left (1-2 m) while facing the cave opening by Silver Birch...hence "Home of the Beaver" & "Mighty Moose" on the same wall further to the left.
Follow easy stepped ledges to start. Use a left mantle (optional) and side-pulls onto the first major ledge. Two steps on the right of the arret and an excellent flake with a layback will get you through the first crux move to the small ledge. Finish the top slab with balancey moves on sloped edges and small right-hand side pulls.
Anchors at top for easy setup with rappel rings.
July 2010: Now also a 3-bolt sport route. The bottom section is ~5.5, middle section ~5.6-5.8, but the top third of this climb justifies the 5.8+ (5.9?) rating. Similar to the top of Stairmaster & Blockbuster.
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Stirling 5.13b (Silver Harbor)
Submitted by: Danny O'Farrell
Climbed on: April 2010
Report: Left of Silver Harbor Dream Line, This route follows the arete on side pulling crips, pinches and dynamic climbing...
4 bolts with anchors.
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Maltese Sandwiches 5.10c (Claghorn Longwall)
Submitted by: Danny O'Farrell
Climbed on: October 2009
Report:
F.A. Blain Herringer, Nick Rochacewich, Danny O'Farrell,
F.F.A. Blain Herringer
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Left of The Beginning
Climb First Arete before The Beginning and Des Nutz...fun enjoyable climb with some funky moves...Clip the bolts and hit the anchors.
10 draws
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Gift of the trees 5.12c-d (Claghorn Longwall)
Submitted by: Danny O'Farrell
Climbed on: October 2009
Report:
F.A. Nick Rochacewich, Danny O'Farrell, Blain Herringer
F.F.A. Nick Rochacewich
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Right of Des Nutz
Follow the open book on a series of ledges on easy climbing to the roof, clip the bolt on the roof with a long draw and commit. Follow thin crimps and side pulls, with technical footwork on beautiful black streaks to anchors.
10 draws to anchors.
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The Beginning 5.12b (Claghorn Longwall)
Submitted by: Danny O'Farrell
Climbed on: October 2009
Report:
F.A. Nick Rochacewich, Danny O'Farrell, Blain Herringer
F.F.A. Nick Rochacewich,
Left of Des Nutz...A well bolted 12a arete, very technical steep climbing, follow your way up thin crimpy ledges, side pulls and pricise foot work, to open the gates to the beginning. Fun and sequency route with good holds to clip from.
12 Quick Draws
Anchors
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The Swing of Things 5.11d (Pass Lake, Staircase Wall)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: November 8 2009
Report:
FA: Adam O'Connor, Kyle Brooks
FFA: Adam O'Connor
Location: Only a few meters to the right of face dancing.
Start in a corner climb the edge of the overhang. Crux between 4 and 5 bolt . Fixed draws for the first 4 bolts Chains on top for anchor.
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All Dressed 5.10a** (Claghorn long wall-right)
Submitted by: Duncan Hutchison
Climbed on: 08-Aug-2009
Report:
FA Kyle Brooks, Duncan Hutchison 8-Aug-09
FFA Duncan Hutchison, Kyle Brooks 15-Aug-09
Located 50 meters or so, before “nothing shocking” and "Ace of Swords". Spruce tree at base with logs building up belay stance. Climb the varied crack into thin section(protected with small nuts and TCU's) and continue on with fun jamming to the top. 30 meters to top, rap off tree with cord anchor. Gear: Double rack up to #3 camalot would be comfortable, or single rack with double or triple .5-.75 camalots.
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Back to the Temple 5.10? (Caribou Island)
Submitted by: Alex Joseph
Climbed on: July 21 2009
Report:
Back to the Temple 5.10? 30m
FA: Alex Joseph, Jarron Childs Jul '09
Fantastic gear belay position on a nice ledge with great view of Temple Reef and beyond. Steep face covered in lichen that if completely cleaned likely would go at 11 but with heavy lichen was a weaving, rope hang with pendulums to decent holds through largely blank sections in the middle. Good finger crack corner pillar to start. Top rope.
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Saddle Up 5.7 (Passlake- Overhanging wall/No man's Land)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: 2008
Report:
Saddle Up is to the left of Cave Crawler. Climb up either side of the same block as cave crawler. (sport, 5 bolts , 2 bolt anchor)
Established in november 08 , Duncan Hutchison, Kyle Brooks
(Fun route and is great addition to Cave Crawler)
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Toss It Up 5.9+ 50m 2 pitch (Squaw Bay ( Chiller Pillar Wall))
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: 2008
Report:
F.A. Kyle Brooks, Duncan Hutchison, Shawn Robinson P1 , FFA Duncan Hutchison, Derrik Patola P1, Duncan Hutchison, Kyle Brooks P2
Location: approximately 100m to the right of American Demon.
Pitch1 Start up a small shale band to a slaby face with a bolt. Travers to the right to reach a crack system leading to a fun roof..... 5.9+ 20m Bolted Belay.
Pitch 2 Travers right to a large ledge passing a bolt. Step down to a great clean crack all the way up .5.8 30m Gear :2 Bolts tcus, Rp’s, Gear to 4 Note P1 may require a couple purple tcus
Rappel with two ropes to ground
This Is a highly recommended route lots of varied climbing * there is a third pitch to the top but is a JUNK pile but if you want to go to the top it is 10 meters easy loose Low 5th class, rap from pine tree.)
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Mc Jiggy 10C 14meters (Pass Lake (staricase wall))
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: Oct 08
Report:
F.A Kyle Brooks, Alex Holowatty.. Located to the right of face dancing. Great route with wicked crux move .. 4 bolts
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Lookout 5.8+ 30m ( Lost Falls , Left Wall)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: Sept 20 /08
Report:
FA: Kyle Brooks ,Duncan Hutchison FFA Kyle Brooks , Alex Holowatty
This route is located to the left of escape from the black flies. Climb the blockly start to a finger /hand crack in a corner. Catch a rest on the large ledge and follow the 3 bolts to the top. Bolted Belay
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Sunshine and lollipops 55 meters .10a 2 pitch (Squaw Bay)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: Summer 08
Report:
F.A : Alex Holowatty, Phil Dunn, Duncan Hutchison, Kyle Brooks,
Located 2.2km up the road, park at the pull over . hike straight up towards a prominent buttress.
Pitch 1: Climb the traversing face , then thin cracks to a bolted belay . Extend all pieces after 3 bolt. . 40 m 6 bolts
Pitch 2: Climb flakes and crack to the top. 15. Gear : Nuts, lots TCU's, standard rack of cams , 6 + runners for pitch 1
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Autochone O-tak-thone 45 m 10c *** (Sqaw Bay, Chiller Pillar Wall)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: FFA:June 08 Duncan Hutch
Report:
FFA : Duncan Hutchison
FA: Kyle Brooks, Duncan Hutchison .Aug 07
This route shares the same start as pokey kitty. Start on the bolck, climb into the corner then bust out RIGHT.
This is an wicked good route that offers a little of every thing . Great climbing on steep rock Rapple from rings
Gear : lots! Double rack cams ,TCUs Gear to 3''
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Pokey Kitty 30m 10+ * (Squaw Bay ,Chiller Pillar Wall)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: FFA: July/08 Kyle Brooks
Report:
To the right of Pokey Puppy/Tag 11A. Pokey Kitty stats on a block, head up a crack that leads into a corner then bust out LEFT towards some flakes protected by a bolt. Jam your way up the crack , to the start of a large flake cross over to the finger crack to your left . chains on top for belay Gear: standerd rack ,TCU, couple little tiny nuts
Note second pitch looks cool but lots of cleaning needed
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Water Side Attraction 2 pitch 50m 5.9 (Oliver Lake : Amphitheatre Wall)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: Aug 4/2008
Report:
FFA : p1 Kyle Brooks p2 Danny O'Farrell
A boat is required to get to the Amphitheater. From west side of oliver lake. Canoe past several small cliffs (water soloing) , Then past 3 camps. And it is the first large 50 meter cliff . 5-10 minute canoe ride Great route with lots of adventure to go with it.(loose rock.)
Pitch1 Start a cedar tree with a small belay area . Climb up corner to large roof , traverse right then up to belay ledge Gear belay large cd's needed.
Pitch 2 Climb up under the large roof exit left though offwidth and top out to tree belay (careful for loose rock between belay and large roof) Gear: Standerd Rack with extra # 2-4
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deep water soloing (Oliver Lake)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: Hot Summer Days
Report:
There are a couple of fun deep water solos at Oliver Lake. 10 meters at most. Deep water off cliff face. A canoe is needed . do not climb close to any camps because of the private property. Crazy FUN
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Hidden Treasures 2pitch 70m 5.9 ** (Orient Bay)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: May 08
Report: F.A Phil Dunn, Kyle Brooks
This route is located in front of fire# 386 sign/driveway . Just around the corner of Reflection Lake Resort
Pitch 1: Climb the slab working your way to the base of a flake crack with bolted belay . 5.6 R Rp's very useful.
Pitch 2 :Climb hand /fist crack that turns offwidth. Continue up a beautiful crack that quickly turns thin go staight up ( much harder than 5.9) or make a big reach right , to a bomber flake that brings you under a roof. Traverse roof to original crack top out to a bolted belay.
rappell route 2 -60 m ropes gets you just to the ground with stretch Gear full rack cd's double #3, # 6optional
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Every Thing Goes Green - 10b (PassLake)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: june 6 2007
Report: Duncan and I think this may have been a f.f.a on this route.
We lead it on gear, the first placement 15 feet up was a little dubious.
i would not really want to whip on the placements.
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The Right Of Way (Mt. Godfrey)
Submitted by: brandon pullan
Climbed on: Summer 05\'
Report: (the info in the new guidbook is a little off and does not do this climb justice)
The Right of Way 5.10d, 70m ***
FA: Brandon Pullan, Steve Gale
FFA: Brandon Pullan, Will Meinen
An awesome line in a beautiful setting. It is the most obvious crack in the area and it is wild that it hadnt been climbed. Start 50m left of Echoes of the Totem at the base of a stellar hand crack.
P1: follow crack to ledge the matle to slanting ledge with anchors. 5.8 20m
P2: layback the thin corner crack stemming your way under a small roof. At the roof, pull the roof of small fingers, sparse feet and wild exposure into a dihedral then to a small ledge with anchors. 5.10d 30m
P3: jam the fun corner crack with ease to the cliff top. 5.9 20m
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Building An Ego (Pass Lake)
Submitted by: brandon pullan
Climbed on: summer 05
Report: Building an Ego! 5.11a, 25m
FA/FFA: Brandon Pullan, Steve Gale
I established this route, solo ground up for the first 3 bolts.. it was my first ground up attempt for a pure sport climb and led to many out west where I am now. The last 5 bolts I rapped in from the top. This route is high quality and one of my favorite routes. It is the sport climb found 15m rite of Chinesse water Torture.. Next to the TR route Jesus' Hair Do. I Searched for hours with the guide (old and new) for a line yet climbed, the lake is pretty much climbed out but there is still a little potential.
ROUTE: Climb up past slopping ledges up and left past bad rock and into the crux.. power through a balancy sequence and then onto a funky face with horizontal slopers galore, anchor has quick links, rap. Have Fun!
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Des Nuts 5.9+ (claghorn long wall)
Submitted by: kyle brooks
Climbed on: oct 28 2006
Report: Location; park at the second clearcut access road, it is now dug up so you cant drive in. walk towarks the back of the cut to log, hammerd into the ground with flaging tape. follow to trail to talus and go stright up towards the drainage gully. the climb is a few feet to the right of the drainage. 5 minute walk to nothing shocking.
This climb follows a 6 boltline up a thin flake to a corner, continue up the dihedral to a roof. Pull out with a crack and good feet.
6 bolt, finger crack sized gear.
F.A Ryan Hymers, Kyle Brooks, Richie Sitarski
F.F.A kyle brooks oct 28 06
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Sundance (Orient Bay)
Submitted by: brandon pullan
Climbed on: Aug. 06
Report: A wild crack line that separates a large pillar from the main wall north of mt. olympus. It is most likely the best crack ive ever been on..
P1: Climb the stellar crack to the inner cave belay. 5.9 (35m)
P2: exit out through large roof.... (project)
FA Patola, Pullan
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Paralyzed by Choice (Lost Falls)
Submitted by: Alex Joseph
Climbed on: 08/2006
Report: 5.8 (4 pitch) 75m? trad 1.5*
FA: Jarron Childs, Alex Joseph alts. 08/2006 (ground up onsight)
A new route in the area around the corner left of Myopic Adventure on Big Thunder Wall just as the loose chossy rock begins to make the start difficult. (repeated route in 2009 and it likely is the easiest line).
P1: Follow up from the left past a cedar in the loose choss, to a cedar in the corner and then up the solid corner and left face to a horizontal cedar belay on a sitting ledge. This is also a potential rappel location (5.4-25m). P2: This is the best pitch. Work up the corner finger-fist crack using small thin edges and jams. Then stem right around what seems like a loose block with a great undercling to a foot ledge. Then work up near the arete with lots of air below on great hand and foot holds with a thin crack for good gear, past a small cedar to sling. Then up to a roof on the right and belay in good 1-2" crack (5.8-25m). P3: Traverse delicately right around roof and up through some vertical cracks to a large ledge with trees. Alternatively go left up through a nice looking flake and roof (5.8-15m). P4: Pop up through some cracks and blocks and top out by pulling through a final boulder (5.4-15m). DESCENT: Via the rappel above Deceptacon.
posted by Alex J at 9:25 PM
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